Today our mighty cruiseship pulled into Samina: a whisp of a port village on the outskirts of the Dominican Republic.
This place is poor. Real poor. As I sped, with my friend, down the only street in town, clutching the back of a motor-bike taxi, I looked back on the moments that were leanest in my life...and realized I have never known poverty.
We were deposited at a beach, located about 20 minutes outside of town. And, after picking our way down a stone-littered trail, we were confronted with a strip of brown land, slowly being licked by an even browner ocean.
Not promising.
Slightly further off, God, in His infinite wisdom, had seen fit to toss a handful of wooden shacks: like dice in some warped, cosmic yahtzee, against a squall of rocks and palm-trees. As one looked up from the valley, one would see choral stone breaktides, systematically retreating back up the hill.
Things weren't looking beachy.
Nevertheless, my friend and I plodded our way to a couple of beach chairs and planted our flag. This seemed as good a place to relax as any, in Samina. And so relax we shall!
Our waiter emerged from the shack-huddle mentioned a few paragraphs above. An affable fellow. His name was Ferbie. James and myself placed drink orders and stared up into the grey sky. A large bird was circling idly, whirling in dirvish fashion, lower and lower to the ground. At first I thought it was a pelican, and I eagerly anticipated watching his dive into the water. Pelican dives have always been a source of avian amusement for me. I suppose that I'm easily entertained. I was to be disappointed, this day however. It was not a pelican, soaring over our heads.
It was a vulture.
Hmmm...
Ferbie arrived with two large bottles of beer on his tray. James and I recieved them gratefully and proceeded to tip our wrists. As there was nothing in the way of watersports, no other visitors, and since there was no way in Hell that I wanted to set foot in the filthy water, drinking seemed to be the only activity worth partaking in. A couple of stray dogs trotted over to us and eyed us balefully. It seemed our sport had found an audience. This brought out the competitor in each of us, and the drinking continued in earnest.
Several beers later, Ferbie joined our group. We commenced in conversation. Ferbie, it seemed, was part-owner of this little establishment, and was anxious to know the tourists' point of view of his wares. We assured him that his service and beverages were beyond reproach. He then asked to see my hat...a cap that I had purchased in Aruba. I handed the bonnet over, and he tried it on. Since he cut a finer jib in it than me, I made it a gift for him, and we became friends.
The good times continued for a while, until James cast a drooping eye on his watch. Shock and horror! Our boat was going to leave in 20 minutes! Casting our towels into our beachbags, we waved our cash at our comrade and broke into a run for the road. As we stood there, waiting for a taxi to appear, I made a casual, yet depressing observation about the causeway.
It was decidedly bereft of taxis.
In the distance, a loud, long horn let out a slow, mournful wail. Our ship was calling to us, and we were helpless to respond! Thinking quickly, James and I ran back down to the beach, calling out to Ferbie. It was a long shot, but perhaps he could help us.
He could! Ferbie quickly led us to a friend who owned a dirtbike. A hurried transaction was sketched, and then the two of us climbed onto the back of the bike, and our chauffer made his way back up to the road.
As we lumbered along, I thought back on my childhood, when I had been forbidden to ride on the back of my friends' bicycles. I wondered what my parents would say if they saw their son now, not doubling, but tripling(!) on the back of a motorcycle. Our driver made a brief stop for gasoline, and then we were on our way, speeding downhill, back towards our impatient ship.
Somewhere along the way I came to contemplate the notion of Faith. It is indeed a strange commodity. We spend our lives hemming and hawing over the people and things we put our faith in. But in moments of crisis, we are forced to pay it out to utter strangers. And here I was, placing not only my faith but my also my life, in the hands of a man who I had never met, and who had only asked for five dollars to cover the gas of the trip.
It turned out to be faith well-spent. Our driver delivered us to our ship, and we offered him our eternal gratitude as we hurried up the gangway.
We may not have found a decent beach in Samina, but we did manage to place our faith in something solid.
I guess that made it worth the trip.
Jim Out.
Sunday Secrets
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